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Long Layers with a Razor
Josh Lamonaca40minLong

Long Layers with a Razor

A men's haircutting course in which Josh Lamonaca cuts the long, fine to medium hair of his model Bartek, choosing the razor for maximum texture: a natural parting with a radial section from ear to ear, face framing with a round external shape from around the nose to the earlobe, round layers on top that reduce the heavy corner, square layers through the back in pivoting sections, cross-checking, personalising with the Acura blade, and styling with Menspire Rough Stuff left to dry naturally, with no blow-dry.

Result and process

  • Long Layers with a Razor - photo 1
  • Long Layers with a Razor - photo 2
  • Long Layers with a Razor - photo 3
  • Long Layers with a Razor - photo 4
  • Long Layers with a Razor - photo 5
  • Long Layers with a Razor - photo 6

About the course

Long Layers with a Razor is a men's cut on long hair in which Josh Lamonaca chooses the razor to get maximum texture. His model Bartek has fine to medium hair, and the goal is movement and natural curl without taking away too much length, in a haircut the client can style himself at home.

The course walks through the whole process step by step: from a natural parting and a radial section from ear to ear, through face framing with a round external shape from around the nose to the earlobe, round layers on top and square layers through the back in pivoting sections, to cross-checking, personalising with the Acura blade and styling with no blow-dry. Josh Lamonaca explains as he goes how he knows when to cut and why he works on drying hair towards the end.

In this course you will see

  • Choosing the tool for the hair: why the razor, not scissors, on fine to medium hair
  • A natural parting and a radial section that let the hair sit at its natural fall
  • Face framing: a round external shape from around the nose to the earlobe, balanced and textured
  • The profile section and round layers on top that reduce the heavy corner
  • Square layers through the back in five pivoting sections around the crown, flat to the head
  • Cross-checking, cutting on drying hair, personalising with the Acura blade and styling with Menspire Rough Stuff

What you will learn

  1. 01How to use the razor on long, fine to medium hair to keep texture, movement and length.
  2. 02How to plan a natural parting and a radial section so the client can style the cut himself.
  3. 03How to frame the face with a round external shape from around the nose to the earlobe.
  4. 04How to combine round layers on top with square layers through the back in pivoting sections.
  5. 05How to check balance and texture with cross-checking and finish the cut on drying hair.
  6. 06How to personalise the cut with the Acura blade and style it with Menspire Rough Stuff, with no blow-dry.

What's inside

Full access with the course
  1. Long Layers with a Razor - Why the razor0:22

    01Why the razor

    Now, the reason why I'm going to work with the razor is because we want to include maximum texture through this haircut.

  2. Long Layers with a Razor - Scissors would block the shape0:43

    02Scissors would block the shape

    If I use the scissors on his hair, the chances are that it's going to go back to a more blocked and strong shape

  3. Long Layers with a Razor - Sectioning for the natural fall1:44

    03Sectioning for the natural fall

    So the reason why we have worked like this is because we want the hair to sit at natural fall every time he does his hair himself.

  4. Long Layers with a Razor - From the nose to the earlobe3:26

    04From the nose to the earlobe

    So the idea of this is that we're going to come up to around the nose area, and we're going to come back down to around the earlobe area in a line that's familiarly round.

  5. Long Layers with a Razor - When to cut4:32

    05When to cut

    At this point, as soon as you see the hair come out of the hands, that's when you know it's time to go.

  6. Long Layers with a Razor - Balanced, not perfect7:02

    06Balanced, not perfect

    Remember, you're not trying to get a perfect line. You're trying to get a balanced and textured line.

  7. Long Layers with a Razor - Reducing the heavy corner11:33

    07Reducing the heavy corner

    So here you can see we have a heavy corner, and our objective is to simply reduce that corner, thus creating a more rounder feeling.

  8. Long Layers with a Razor - Length and curl16:26

    08Length and curl

    Once the hair has a slightly shorter shape, it tends to bunch up. The longer that it gets, it tends to stretch out and become straighter.

  9. Long Layers with a Razor - Both sides side by side26:20

    09Both sides side by side

    And you can see, if I share with you the difference between one side that's been cut with absolute texture and great precision, versus the other side, which is still long and heavy and very flat.

  10. Long Layers with a Razor - No more water29:26

    10No more water

    And the reason for that is because I get greater advantage by truly understanding what's happening to the hair as the hair dries.

  11. Long Layers with a Razor - Refining by eye34:50

    11Refining by eye

    No technique about it, just really visual and just to see what works.

  12. Long Layers with a Razor - Recreated at home39:45

    12Recreated at home

    Okay, and again, the emphasis of that is to allow him to recreate the same identity at home.

FAQ

Who is this course for?
For hairdressers and barbers who want to cut longer men's hair confidently: work with a razor, frame the face, combine round and square layers and finish the cut so the client can style it himself.
What hair does this cut work on?
In the course the model has long, fine to medium hair that starts to curl once the external shape is shortened and layered. Josh Lamonaca explains that a shorter shape makes the hair bunch up, while longer hair stretches out and becomes straighter.
Why a razor instead of scissors?
Because Josh Lamonaca wants maximum texture and lightness. He says that with scissors this hair would go back to a more blocked and strong shape.
What tools do I need?
A razor (for personalising, Josh Lamonaca uses the Acura blade, Menspire Texturaser), scissors for point cutting, a comb, clips, a water spray and a hairdryer for a quick blast. For styling: Menspire Rough Stuff.
How do I check that both sides are even?
From the centre, by eye and by hand, check that both lengths meet identically. After layering, Josh Lamonaca cross-checks from the top down and horizontally, and finally checks the transitions between the sides and the back.
Do I need to blow-dry the hair after the cut?
No. The hair only gets a quick blast back, then Josh Lamonaca applies Menspire Rough Stuff and a little water, and the hair dries by itself in 15 to 20 minutes, just as the client will style it at home.

Details

Duration
40min
Season
Season 3
Hair length
Long

Educator

More courses
Josh Lamonaca

Josh Lamonaca

Educator · 1 course

Josh Lamonaca is a men's hairdresser and educator. In 2014 he founded Menspire with Samuel Palmer, a men's hairdressing brand with its academy in St Albans, UK, where he leads education. He has been cutting hair since he was 15 and from the start combined two crafts: he wanted to cut hair like a hairdresser and fade like a barber. He has taught since 2015, first at workshops around the UK and then abroad: he has taught in more than 30 countries, and in Brazil he presented in front of an audience of 2,000. At the Modern Barber Awards he won Best All-Round Barber (2023) and Educator of the Year (2024). In November 2025 his DNA collection won Men's Hairdresser of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards. Since January 2026 he has been Fresha's first Head of Hair Education. He has visited Poland six times for Connected Hair and Barber Night events, and in June 2026 he closed the Main Stage of Barber Night S6 in Warsaw.

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