Beata Berendowicz3h 29minLong

Smart Blonde Color with Airtouch

An advanced color course in which Beata Berendowicz lightens long hair that the client had darkened herself: she combines airtouch with shatush and zigzag, works with BLONDME 9+ powder on the 12 algorithm in portions of 10 g of powder and 50 g of 12% developer, keeps a natural base at the top, tones with three Igora Vibrance shades with a touch of red pigment, and finishes with a dry cut with curtain bangs and waves made with a curling iron.

Result and process

About the course

Advanced color with combined techniques is a course in which Beata Berendowicz gives her model Gaja back a sunny, natural blonde. Gaja is naturally a level 6, 7, but after she darkened her hair herself it took on a level 5, 4 shade. The hair is long and has to stay long, and the color has to look natural and last up to a year without a hard regrowth line.

The course shows the whole service, more than three hours of work: from preparing the hair and the workstation, through lightening with BLONDME 9+ powder on the 12 algorithm in portions mixed every 30 minutes, airtouch combined with shatush and zigzag where blowing out is no longer enough, to toning with three Igora Vibrance shades, a dry cut and curling iron waves. Beata Berendowicz talks through every move: how she holds the section, how she slides out the board, how she folds the foil and why she never leaves the client during toning.

In this course you will see

A section plan with a strong front, a light underneath and a natural base at the top
Lightener portions: 10 g of powder and 50 g of 12% developer, a fresh bowl every 30 minutes
The airtouch blow out from the root, a section gathered flat and board work braced against the body
Shatush, zigzag and weaving closer to the top, and working on a diagonal toward the face
Micro-fine sections around the face and the right triangle for baby hairs
Toning with three Igora Vibrance shades with red pigment against blueish tones
A dry cut with curtain bangs and curling iron waves with straight ends

What you will learn

01How to plan color sections with a strong front and underneath while keeping a natural base at the top for less regrowth.
02How to lighten safely in portions on the 12 algorithm: 10 g of powder and 50 g of 12% developer, a fresh bowl every 30 minutes.
03How to blow out an airtouch section from the root, control the amount of lightness with the distance of your fingers and work with the board braced against your body.
04How to combine airtouch with shatush, zigzag and weaving, and fold the foil without squeezing out the product.
05How to tone with three Igora Vibrance shades, blend the regrowth and neutralize blueish tones with red pigment.
06How to dry cut long hair quickly after color, with curtain bangs, and style waves with a curling iron.

What's inside

Full access with the course

0:03
01Color with combined techniques
today I've prepared for you an advanced color with combined techniques, with the airtouch technique.
4:30
02Natural base at the top
the more natural color I keep, that base color, the less regrowth the client will have
5:48
03The powder's 30-minute window
the crucial time when the powder works the most, is the time from the moment of mixing, about 30 minutes.
6:52
04One portion on the algorithm
In my case, when working with the algorithm, it's always 10 grams of powder and 50 grams of developer.
15:55
05Blow out from the root
We always blow the hair out only from the very root.
17:56
06Board always to the side
my method is to gently hold the foil and slide the board out always to the side.
20:56
07Section gathered flat
The point is to gather the section flat, not into a point.
30:45
08Diagonal toward the face
I'm creating more lightness saturation towards the face, and much less towards the back of the head.
45:20
09Test on a cut strand
A thin strand was cut out and tested to see how the hair reacts and what kind of color result we can even achieve.
1:28:31
10The right triangle
Turn this triangle into a right triangle.
2:35:00
11Toning beside the client
working with a toner is always active work, when you stand by your client.
2:50:59
12Red pigment against blueish tones
Because red acts like an eraser for green.

FAQ

Who is this course for?

For hairdressers who already know lightening and want to work with airtouch on long hair. Beata Berendowicz says plainly that lightener techniques are advanced techniques and not a good topic for beginners: you need a skilled hand, experience and knowledge of chemistry, product and hair.

How much lightener do you need for hair this long?

Beata Berendowicz mixes portions of 10 g of powder and 50 g of 12% developer. After two portions, that is 20 g of powder, almost the whole back of the head was done, and the fifth portion for the diamond at the top brought the total to 50 g. For the last sections she mixed in some fresh product as well.

What if the hair can't be blown out?

If the hair is very thick and strong, with no baby hairs, and the same amount from root to ends, airtouch is out. Then you need to do babylights. It also happens that airtouch is possible only at the front on the temples, but not at the back.

Can you lighten only the regrowth?

Yes. If you don't want to lighten the lengths, you apply lightener only to the regrowth. If you're worried, you can add conditioner to the algorithm and keep the ends outside the foil. In the course the lengths are lightened on purpose, after checking the condition of the hair.

How long do you leave the toner on?

From 5 to 15 or even 20 minutes, depending on the result. Beata Berendowicz doesn't set a fixed time: she stands by the client and watches the hair, because every hair picks up pigment differently.

How long does the result last?

According to Beata Berendowicz, at least six months, and some clients with gray hair come in for this type of color once a year. Igora Vibrance toners wash out after 20 washes and leave no regrowth band, because they don't change the natural color of the hair.

Details

Duration: 3h 29min
Hair length: Long

Educator

More courses

Beata Berendowicz

Educator · 1 course

Beata Berendowicz is a stylist and trendsetter from Opole and one of the best-known names in Polish hairdressing education. She is co-founder and artistic director of the Berendowicz & Kublin Academy, which she has run with Slawek Kublin since 2003, and a Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador. For more than 20 years she has trained new generations of hairdressers, specializing in her own techniques for women's cutting, color and styling. She holds the title of master craftsman. She has staged shows at the National Theatre and created hair for Miss Polonia, Elite Model Look, the Opole Festival, Fashion Week Poland and the Polish edition of Dancing with the Stars, and her work has been published in Twoj Styl, Elle, Viva! and Pani. In her work she focuses on understanding form and working with hair consciously, so that the look brings out the client's individuality.

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