Herman Kariev55minMedium

Bixie on Three Disconnections

Women's haircutting course where Herman Kariev creates his version of a bixie: the back built on three disconnections - lower, central, and upper - radial sections guided from the highest point of the head to the ear, the occipital bone used as a reference point for the base, cutting at an angle above 90 degrees to remove volume without shortening length, the top cut into a triangle to preserve weight at the crown, the face frame lengthened by pulling each subsequent section into the last one, texturizing with the pinching method on damp hair, and a razor finish, styled with wave cream and STMNT gel and dried with a diffuser.

About the course

Bixie on Three Disconnections is a women's haircutting course where the shape comes from how the weight is distributed, not from a single strong line. Herman Kariev shows his version of a bixie on hair with a natural wave, guiding the whole cut so that texture and length can coexist.

He divides the back into three zones and cuts each one separately, in disconnection: lower, central, and upper. He sets the base from the occipital bone, moving one or two centimeters above it, and guides the radial sections from the highest point of the head to the ear. He cuts almost everything at an angle above 90 degrees, because he wants to remove volume while leaving the length. He sets the top into a triangle relative to the fringe to keep the weight at the crown, then rounds off the shape with pivoting. Finally, he adds texture using the pinching method on damp hair and finishes the face frame with a razor.

In this course, you'll see

Dividing the head into central, radial, horizontal, and triangular sections before the first cut
The occipital bone as the reference point for the base of the cut
Three disconnections at the back of the head and what each one brings to the shape
Cutting at an angle above 90 degrees - removing volume without shortening length
Pulling each subsequent section into the previous one and working off a single guideline
Lengthening the face frame by pulling hair into the last section near the face
Setting the fringe and marking its highest point with a comb
The top zone cut into a triangle and pivoting that rounds off the shape
Texturizing with the pinching method on damp hair with a natural wave
A razor finish, and what Herman Kariev calls personalizing the cut
Styling with wave cream and STMNT gel, dried with a diffuser

What you will learn

01How to build the back of a bixie on three disconnections, and why to separate the lower, central, and upper zones.
02How to set the base of the cut from the occipital bone and guide radial sections from the highest point of the head to the ear.
03Why cutting at an angle above 90 degrees removes volume while still leaving the length.
04How to work off a single guideline by pulling each section into the previous one.
05How to lengthen the face frame by pulling hair into the last section near the face.
06How to set the top into a triangle relative to the fringe to keep the weight at the crown.
07When to pivot to make the shape rounder.
08How to texturize with the pinching method on damp hair when the client has a natural wave.
09Why keeping sections clean and cross-checking matters before one side ends up longer than the other.

What's inside

Full access with the course

0:22
01Central section and radial
So I'll separate the central section and the radial.
4:17
02The occipital bone as a point
Then I'll find the occipital bone and go one or two centimeters above it.
9:24
03A square in the central section
In this central section, we want to create a square.
13:38
04An angle above 90 degrees
We'll be cutting at an angle above ninety degrees, because we want to remove volume but leave the length.
18:23
05The central zone in disconnection
I'll be cutting at an angle above ninety degrees, in disconnection.
24:16
06Lengthening the face frame
Now I'll pull all this hair into the last section, because we want to lengthen the hair at the face frame so it accentuates the facial contour.
30:14
07The fringe in disconnection
I'll cut the fringe at an angle greater than ninety degrees, because I'll be cutting a disconnection.
33:33
08The top zone in a triangle
I'm putting all of this into a triangle, because we want to keep the weight here and add even more texture.
36:41
09Pivoting and rounding off the shape
Thanks to pivoting, we'll get a rounder shape.
39:07
10Texture using the pinching method
Since our model has rather wavy hair, I'll do the texture on damp hair. And with the pinching method.
43:00
11Razor at the line-up
And I'll cut all of this, all of it, with the razor.
47:12
12Styling with wave cream and gel
For styling, I'll use STMNT wave cream and STMNT gel.

FAQ

Who is this course for?

For hairdressers who do women's haircuts with texture and layers and want to control hair weight with intention. It's also useful for shags, mullets, and other shapes built on disconnection.

What is a bixie?

It's a shape between a bob and a pixie: a shorter top with texture and weight, and a longer frame around the face. Herman Kariev shows his own version, built on three disconnections at the back of the head.

What tools do I need?

Scissors, a comb, a razor, sectioning clips, a spray bottle, and a hairdryer with a diffuser. For styling, Herman Kariev uses wave cream and STMNT gel.

Why does he cut almost everything at an angle above 90 degrees?

Because he wants to remove volume while leaving the length. This angle builds layers instead of simply shortening the hair.

Why three disconnections instead of one?

Each zone has a different job. Splitting the back into lower, central, and upper zones allows you to control texture and shape separately, instead of looking for a compromise in a single cut.

Will this shape work on straight hair?

The model has a natural wave, which is why the texture is created with the pinching method on damp hair. On straight hair, the section structure stays the same - what changes is how the texture is added and finished.

What is the personalization Herman Kariev talks about?

It's a finish tailored to a specific hair type and specific person, done with a razor at the end of the cut. There's no single formula, since it turns out differently every time.

Why is cross-checking repeated so often?

Without it, it's easy to leave one side longer than the other and not notice until styling. Herman Kariev checks both sides after every zone.

Details

Duration: 55min
Season: Season 3
Hair length: Medium

Educator

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Herman Kariev

Educator · 1 course

Herman Kariev is a Ukrainian hairdresser working in Prague, at the Kamikiri studio in Letná. He started out as a barber, but soon realized he was more drawn to longer shapes and creative work, and moved into hairdressing. He's been cutting hair for two years, and in that time he's built his own visual language: texture, long layers, bold shapes, and unexpected forms. He works on both women's and men's hair, and at the salon he also does short haircuts, fades, and beards. He pays the most attention to disconnections and playing with hair weight, building the haircut around how the hair naturally falls and moves. He believes a strong haircut comes from understanding structure and making intentional decisions, not from following rules for their own sake. He treats the consultation as the starting point of the entire haircut. In his teaching, he shares techniques he's developed behind the chair, and encourages other hairdressers to find their own approach to cutting instead of replicating familiar patterns.

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