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Italian Bob
Paweł Rup1h 21minShort

Italian Bob

The Italian Bob course teaches a cutting technique for hairdressers that solves the problem of flat hair. You'll learn to combine a precise line with a square layer to create a hairstyle full of volume and movement.

Result and process

  • Italian Bob - photo 1
  • Italian Bob - photo 2
  • Italian Bob - photo 3
  • Italian Bob - photo 4
  • Italian Bob - photo 5
  • Italian Bob - photo 6

About the course

Italian Bob is a classic cut that solves the problem of flat, lifeless hair by consciously building weight at the bottom and lightness at the top. The course shows how, on wavy or straight hair, to combine a precise line technique with a square layer to create a hairstyle full of movement and volume that the client can easily style every day.

Paweł Rup guides you through the entire process, from the consultation and diagnosing the "pancake effect" problem, through the precise division of the head into a line zone and a layer zone, to the final styling. You'll see how the lower section, cut using the line technique, creates a solid foundation and weight for the bob, while the upper section, worked in a square layer, removes weight from the interior and gives the hairstyle natural movement.

In the course you'll see

  • The "invisible fringe" technique - how to section off and cut a short section that, combed back, creates face framing, while staying invisible day-to-day
  • A precise division of the head into four zones based on anatomy - the occipital bone and the head's curve - as the foundation for building weight and lightness
  • Building the line with disconnection - why each subsequent section is cut 0.5 cm longer, to create roundness and avoid a flat shape
  • Working in a square layer (90-degree elevation from the head's surface) on vertical sections, to remove weight from the interior of the hairstyle without losing length
  • Styling that combines a diffuser with irregular wrapping of sections around a brush - how to achieve a natural, not overstyled effect of movement and volume
  • Lightening the crown at 180-degree elevation as the final detail connecting the top section with the back and adding lightness to the crown
  • Cutting the fringe using the slide-cutting technique, to give it lightness and direction without shortening the base length

After watching the course, you'll start consciously managing weight and lightness in a hairstyle, turning the problem of flat hair into an asset. You'll learn to build a bob with a solid foundation and a dynamic top, and the "invisible fringe" technique will become your tool for creating modern, easy-to-style cuts that clients will love for their versatility.

What you will learn

  1. 01How to precisely divide the head into line and layer zones.
  2. 02How to build a line with disconnection to achieve a rounded shape.
  3. 03How to work in a square layer to give the hairstyle lightness and volume.
  4. 04How to create an "invisible fringe" that adds lightness and frames the face.
  5. 05How to redirect sections in a square pattern to build width in the hairstyle.
  6. 06How to style the hairstyle by combining a diffuser and brush for a natural effect.

Before you start

This course assumes you already have:

What's inside

Full access with the course
  1. Italian Bob - The invisible fringe concept1:00

    01The invisible fringe concept

    We'll try to make it very small, an almost invisible fringe.

  2. Italian Bob - Creating roundness in the cutting line6:12

    02Creating roundness in the cutting line

    We won't cut this to the stationary guide, we'll just add a bit of extra space.

  3. Italian Bob - The key rule for redirecting the section18:23

    03The key rule for redirecting the section

    My comb no longer moves left or right. The comb only moves front and back.

  4. Italian Bob - Building width in the hairstyle from the front28:49

    04Building width in the hairstyle from the front

    We do this so that, looking from the front, this hairstyle appears simply wider.

  5. Italian Bob - Why avoid horizontal sections32:58

    05Why avoid horizontal sections

    On hair this long, when building layers, I never work horizontally.

  6. Italian Bob - The effect of a fringe that isn't there45:40

    06The effect of a fringe that isn't there

    Our fringe starts around jawline height, so we have it and don't have it at the same time.

  7. Italian Bob - Why we start blow-drying with the fringe1:05:53

    07Why we start blow-drying with the fringe

    This fringe always falls the worst and takes the longest to dry.

  8. Italian Bob - Sealing the hair cuticle with cool air1:16:41

    08Sealing the hair cuticle with cool air

    At the very end, we'll also use cool air to seal the hair cuticle.

FAQ

What client hair problem is this cut the perfect solution for?
This cut is perfect for clients with flat, volume-lacking hair, described in the course as the "pancake effect". The technique consciously builds weight at the bottom and lightness at the top, which lifts the hair.
Will this technique work on straight and wavy hair?
Yes, the course shows how this technique works on hair that has a natural tendency to wave or curl. The goal is to create a hairstyle full of natural movement and volume that the client can style easily.
What techniques does the Italian Bob cut in this course rely on?
The cut is based on combining two key techniques. The lower sections are cut using the line technique with disconnection, to build weight, and the upper sections in a square layer (90-degree elevation), to add lightness and movement.
Does the course show the fringe-cutting technique?
Yes, Paweł Rup shows how to create an "invisible fringe". It's a short, layered section that, combed back, creates face framing, while staying practically invisible day-to-day and out of the way.
Why are subsequent sections in the line technique cut longer?
In the course, subsequent sections in the line area are deliberately cut about 0.5 cm longer. This disconnection technique allows you to build roundness above the previous section and avoid a flat shape at the back of the head.
How long is the entire video?
The video course is 81 minutes long and shows the whole process step by step, from the consultation, through precise wet cutting, to the final styling using a diffuser and brush.

Details

Duration
1h 21min
Season
Season 3
Hair length
Short

Educator

More courses
Paweł Rup

Paweł Rup

Educator · 2 courses

A hairdresser from Rzeszów who rejects the rigid divide between women's and men's hairdressing, focusing on intentional construction and functional cutting. In his courses, he shows how precise technique - from working with layers to his signature gravitational geometry - becomes a tool for creative thinking. He teaches how to create hairstyles tailored to the individual, rather than repeating templates.

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