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Triangular Graduation with a Square Back Plane
Sergiusz Pawlak1h 56minMedium

Triangular Graduation with a Square Back Plane

This course teaches the fundamental triangular graduation technique with a square back plane. It's a universal base that lets you create a wide range of hairstyles, from commercial to avant-garde.

Result and process

  • Triangular Graduation with a Square Back Plane - photo 1
  • Triangular Graduation with a Square Back Plane - photo 2
  • Triangular Graduation with a Square Back Plane - photo 3

About the course

Triangular graduation with a square back plane is a fundamental cutting technique that the educator calls "the hairdresser's tofu" - a universal base from which dozens of different hairstyles can be created. The course shows how to build a precise, flat wall of hair at the back of the head, then, working solely on the outline, give it a radically different character: from a commercial bob, through an asymmetric "compass" bob, to an avant-garde pageboy.

Sergiusz Pawlak guides you through the entire process step by step, from the intentional choice of stationary guide length, which determines the final character of the hairstyle, to sculpting the outline with a trimmer on dry hair. You'll see how to simplify the work with guide frames that keep the square geometry in check, and why the entire haircut is done while standing in one spot - without moving around the chair. It's a method that turns complex geometry into a repeatable, salon-ready system.

In this course, you'll see

  • Creating guide frames on the top and bottom edge of the section - how to simplify maintaining the square plane without constantly checking the redirection
  • Choosing the stationary guide length - why a shorter guide opens the door to avant-garde shapes, while a longer one guarantees a safe, commercial result
  • Working from a single spot without moving around the head - the key to precision and avoiding rounding of the back plane
  • Thorough cross-checking after every section as the foundation that guarantees the cleanliness of the whole shape
  • Three different outline finishes on the same base - from an asymmetric "compass" bob to a short pageboy with a round line
  • Dry cleanup and trimmer work - how to sculpt the shape, remove excess weight, and refine the details after blow-drying

After this course, you'll stop treating the square plane as a single hairstyle and start using it as a systemic base for creating many different shapes. You'll gain the craft to consciously control the character of the cut through precise work on the outline, offering your clients both safe, commercial forms and bold, creative styles built on the same solid foundation.

What you will learn

  1. 01How to use guide frames to maintain a perfectly square plane.
  2. 02Why the length of the stationary guide determines the final character of the hairstyle.
  3. 03How to perform the entire haircut standing in one spot for maximum precision.
  4. 04How to cross-check the cut precisely to avoid costly mistakes.
  5. 05How to sculpt the outline on dry hair, creating different styles from one base.
  6. 06When and how to use the trimmer for final refinement and shape sculpting.

Before you start

This course assumes you already have:

What's inside

Full access with the course
  1. Triangular Graduation with a Square Back Plane - The Cutting Concept - Hairdresser's Tofu0:08

    01The Cutting Concept - Hairdresser's Tofu

    This haircut I'm about to show you, I call the hairdresser's tofu.

  2. Triangular Graduation with a Square Back Plane - Creating the Guide Frame5:50

    02Creating the Guide Frame

    This frame, as you'll see in a moment, will make our lives much easier.

  3. Triangular Graduation with a Square Back Plane - Key Cross-Check of the Haircut's Foundation19:05

    03Key Cross-Check of the Haircut's Foundation

    Checking with a cross-check is very important, because this is the foundation of this hairstyle.

  4. Triangular Graduation with a Square Back Plane - Maintaining the Vertical Parting34:35

    04Maintaining the Vertical Parting

    It often happens that people instinctively start dividing the head this way.

  5. Triangular Graduation with a Square Back Plane - Blending the Front with the Back Plane41:39

    05Blending the Front with the Back Plane

    We'll comb each subsequent section toward the back.

  6. Triangular Graduation with a Square Back Plane - Dry Elevation Technique1:07:38

    06Dry Elevation Technique

    We'll be doing our elevation above the edge of our section.

  7. Triangular Graduation with a Square Back Plane - Stabilizing the Hair Before the Outline1:23:48

    07Stabilizing the Hair Before the Outline

    A really nice trick is to also apply hairspray from the inside of the hair.

  8. Triangular Graduation with a Square Back Plane - Blending Opposing Shapes1:48:09

    08Blending Opposing Shapes

    We're introducing a round outline into the triangular shape of our graduation.

FAQ

Is this technique meant for women's hairdressing or men's barbering?
The technique is universal. Sergiusz Pawlak demonstrates it in a women's context, but he emphasizes that it's very popular and easily translatable to men's heads in barbering as well.
Why does the educator emphasize working without moving around the chair?
Standing in one spot is key to maintaining a perfectly square back plane. Any movement to the left or right could cause unintended rounding of the shape and a loss of precision.
How does the length of the first stationary guide affect the final result?
The length of the stationary guide is decisive. A shorter guide allows for more avant-garde, lighter forms and gives greater possibilities when cutting the outline. A longer guide guarantees a safer, more commercial result.
What are guide frames and why are they so helpful in this technique?
Guide frames are strands of hair cut along the top and bottom edge of the section. They act as guardians of the geometry, eliminating the need to constantly check the redirection and greatly simplifying maintenance of the square shape.
Is the entire haircut done on wet hair?
No, only the basic form is built on wet hair for maximum precision. The final cleanup of the shape and sculpting of the creative outline is done on hair that is completely dried and stabilized with hairspray.
What specialized tools are needed to perform this haircut?
Besides standard scissors and clips, Sergiusz uses a flat brush for blow-drying, a trimmer for precise finishing, and special scissors for working on dry hair when sculpting the outline.
How long is the video content in this course?
The course runs for 115 minutes, during which Sergiusz Pawlak discusses and demonstrates every stage of the technique in detail, from the partings to the final styles.

Details

Duration
1h 56min
Season
Season 1
Hair length
Medium

Educator

More courses
Sergiusz Pawlak

Sergiusz Pawlak

Educator · 2 courses

Founder of Airhair Team and winner of the Best Salon Awards 2017. Inspired by the London School of Hairdressing, his work focuses on precision and perfection in executing shapes and lines. As an educator, he emphasizes building awareness and clear communication, breaking down complex geometric techniques into understandable stages. He is also an artist and the author of the photography album "Sergiusz Pawlak Hair".

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